Sunday 25 May 2014

La nuit européenne des musées

If someone were to ask me what one of my best experiences was in Paris, I would definitely say La Nuit européenne des musées (the European Night of Museums). This is a cultural event that happens across Europe every year in May for one night. Most major museums (something like 4,000 in total) open their doors free to the public from 6-midnight. Because most museums charge a 8-15 Euro entrance fee ($12-20), it's actually a pretty sweet deal to participate in this museum night.

When I was in Paris in 2009 with my mom, aunt, and cousin, we tried to go to the Musée d'Orsay, but it was so busy that we decided not to wait in line. This made me so sad considering that this museum hosts one of the most magnificent impressionist painting collections in the world! So, my first stop on La Nuit européenne des musées was this beautiful museum. The museum occupies what used to be a train station right along the Seine river. You can easily recognize the building by its giant clock (pictured below from inside the museum looking out into Paris). Yes, the woman walking across the frame of my picture is wearing a red baret (sadly, she is not a Parisian, but an American tourist).


The Musée d'Orsay was wonderful!!! The first exhibit I walked into was one featuring Toulouse Lautrec paintings. When I think of Lautrec, I think of the Moulin Rouge and large dance scenes with women cast in eery green and red floor lighting...like this painting:

 
Almost immediately after that, I made my way up to the top floor to see the impressionist gallery. FABULOUS! Renoir is my absolutely favorite impressionist. I have this visceral reaction to his paintings - normally a chill runs down my spine. I just find their soft brush strokes, whimsical colors, and general composition so pleasing. He is such a master of capturing light as well - particularly the ways in which light pools in the folds of rich fabrics. I am a big fan of this painting of two girls at a piano:


A few other paintings that stole my breath include:

More Renoir:

Degas:


Then, I made my way to a special exhibition on Van Gogh's institutionalization, The Man Suicided by Society. The exhibit talked about Van Gogh's transformation in the mental institution and the societal pressures that induced his mental illness. Aside from this intriguing history, I also got to see some magnificent masterpieces.



Eventually, I pulled myself away from the impressionists and explores some of the post-impressionist paintings, which were just as stunning. Then, I left the museum and made my way to the Petit palais to see the Paris 1900 Exhibit. But, the line was too long, that I decided to head over to the Musée d'Orangerie instead. This was quite fortunate as I got to see Monet's water lilies and another museum full of wonderful impressionist and post-impressionist paintings! The walk through the Tuileries at sunset was stunning (as expected). AND the expansive water lily paintings were just so awe-inspiring.





After the Musée d'Orangerie, I made my way back to the Petit palais hoping that the line would have subsided by 10:30 pm or so. No such luck. So, it was on to the Louvre! (Below you'll see the Musée d'Orsay clock from the street):


By the time I got to the Louvre, I was so exhausted that I sort of was just roaming about hoping that I would stumble across some masterpiece...and I did! Found the Mona Lisa and many other famous paintings/sculptures etc.



Around 11:30 pm, I was desperate to escape the Louvre. But, it's so expansive and I was so tired that I had trouble navigating the "this way to exit" signs. At one point (I think I was in some classical statue gallery), I stumbled across this sculpture of a baby in duress. I felt like that baby. I just wanted out! Eventually, I found my way back to the central information desk and to the metro (after a few more false turns).


Overall, the night was magical. Walking along the Seine, watching the sunset, observing Parisians and tourists alike soak in the early summer sun...it was just really refreshing to see that amount of happiness/appreciation in one place.

2 comments:

  1. I literally had the same exact experience when I was at on one of the Louvre's open-late nights - I couldn't find my way out of the sculpture gallery and nearly decided to sleep in between two masterpieces.

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