I admit it. I took two days off from Mardi Gras-ing. I ran out of steam after Endymion and decided to reboot and get back on the Carnival wagon on Fat Tuesday. Unfortunately, the wonderful weather at Endymion was gone by Mardi Gras morning. All of New Orleans felt like someone was playing a cruel trick on us that morning. 35 degrees and raining and no sunshine in our futures. I was up at 8:00 am. I slept in compared to most New Orleanians on Mardi Gras day who hit the streets by 7:00 am to (A) score the best spots for the Zulu Social Aid & Pleasure Club parade or (B) get to the French Quarter before it is too crowded to move.
After putting on my long underwear, my Mardi Gras wig, my rain gear, my poncho, and my bike helmet, I was finally ready to bike to the Marigny for the Krewe of St. Anne parade (a smaller, neighborhood parade that rolls on Mardi Gras day through the Bywater, Marigny, and eventually, the French Quarter). I am so glad I was able to secure a bike for Mardi Gras day - it was so easy to scoot around traffic to various neighborhoods to enjoy the celebrations. Anyway, back to St. Anne. I had planned to meet friends outside of that tapas bar I mentioned in a previous post - Mimi's in the Marigny. When I arrived, the neighborhood block party was already in full swing regardless of the constant downpour. The mobile bars were out in full. People were dressed in the most wonderful costumes I have ever seen. I felt like I was among "my people." I bet each and every one of them would have accepted an invitation to one of my murder mystery dinner parties! Ha! The very first group costume I saw was a Mr. Okra truck! Mr. Okra is our modern day street vendor, known for his catchy street cries about fresh produce. Basically, these people were the very embodiment of my dissertation on New Orleans' food markets and street food culture!
I saw the entire cast of Alice in Wonderland (complete with a mobile tea party). At one point, a large aquatic themed parade went by. I assume the green Poseidon-like figure riding the float was a character from some fantasy novel/comic strip I don't know about. He had an entire fleet of gold men pulling his boat along. They were surrounded by people dressed up as jelly fish, puffer fish, lobsters, and various sea creatures. I was sort of hoping that they would bust into a rousing rendition of "Under the Sea" from the Little Mermaid. Alas, that didn't happen. As they passed by, I caught my first throw of the day - a plastic alligator!
As my friends got caught in Mardi Gras traffic on their way to the Marigny, I decided to head to a cute little coffee shop to warm up. I had the most delicious hot chocolate - it was really frothy. How do they do that?
The environment in the coffee shop was so comical. I loved watching people dressed as Cleopatra and Mark Antony or as characters from the Fantastic Four walk up to the counter and order a "flat white" or "cafe noir." It made me wonder what kind of drinks those characters would actually have chosen in their historical/mythical worlds. After warming up in the coffee shop, I stepped outside to watch various New Orleanians parade by in their costumes on their way to the French Quarter. I liked this man's costume (he was dressed as a King Cake and built in cup holders into his ensemble):
At one point I witnessed two unicorns fighting in a make-shift boxing ring (I don't know what that was about, but I just accepted it as part of Mardi Gras day). It was quite the spectacle. Everyone was cheering them on in this bizarre MTV Spring Break-esq kind of way.
Eventually, I heard from my friends. They were over in Treme (a few neighborhoods over) waiting for the Mardi Gras Indians to parade by. I decided to join them over there because I always wanted to see the Mardi Gras Indians! They have the most fabulous hand beaded, feather costumes imaginable. They look like this:
On my way there, I ran into the St. Anne's parade. It was nice to catch a glimpse of that before heading on. After cycling 15 minutes, I made it to the bridge where Claiborne Ave and Orleans Ave meet. Apparently, "Mardi Gras under the Bridge" at Claiborne and Orleans is a thing. Here is a YouTube video to give you an idea of what it was like - AWESOME. There was live music (and it was dry under the bridge, which made it even better considering the weather).
I didn't realize that this intersection was at the end of the Zulu parade route, which started Uptown at 8:00 am and reached us around 10:45 am. When the floats started rolling by, I was completely surprised! I was only expecting the Second Lines (and the Mardi Gras Indians) to pass by...not the entire parade. SO FUN! Anyway, Zulu is known for throwing out bedazzled coconuts. Similar to the Muses shoes, they are a very prized Mardi Gras throw. Oddly enough, however, when the floats made their way under the bridge, krewe members were handing out coconuts left and right! It was incredible. I think everyone around me got a coconut. I got five coconuts!!! A stranger was kind enough to give me a really cool white spotted coconut, and I gave a little kid a gold one later on (#karma).
We hung around under the bridge until 12:30 or so. I didn't see any Mardi Gras Indians. They also parade on St. Joseph's day (March 19 this year), so I think I will see them then. After the parade, we decided to head to Bar Tonique to warm up. We got hot toddies which were delightful after being outside in the cold, cold weather. It was so nice to just sit down by the fire and chat. I was actually hanging out with one of my Duke professor's daughters who lives in the city. She has a wonderful group of friends who were really great to hang out with too. After Bar Tonique, I decided to head to the Quarter for a bit of people watching.
Surprisingly, it was fairly calm in the quarter! I think they rain held most of the crowds at bay. Don't get me wrong, it was still bustling, but you could actually walk around and enjoy the sights and people watch without fearing that you would be trampled to death. It was also a very family-friendly experience. I did not see a single person flash anyone for beads etc. I did see a woman whose costume consisted of little swimming shorts and Mardi Gras coins pasted on her chest (and that was it). She was accompanied by a similarly skimpily clad guy. I saw them at the St. Anne parade and then again at Bar Tonique -- it must be a popular neighborhood bar. But that was the extent of skin I saw on Mardi Gras (thank God!)
Anyway, I enjoyed walking along Royal and Bourbon Street. I caught a few beads (now I can say I did Mardi Gras on Bourbon Street!)
I was home and doing laundry by 3:00 pm! Perfect!
After putting on my long underwear, my Mardi Gras wig, my rain gear, my poncho, and my bike helmet, I was finally ready to bike to the Marigny for the Krewe of St. Anne parade (a smaller, neighborhood parade that rolls on Mardi Gras day through the Bywater, Marigny, and eventually, the French Quarter). I am so glad I was able to secure a bike for Mardi Gras day - it was so easy to scoot around traffic to various neighborhoods to enjoy the celebrations. Anyway, back to St. Anne. I had planned to meet friends outside of that tapas bar I mentioned in a previous post - Mimi's in the Marigny. When I arrived, the neighborhood block party was already in full swing regardless of the constant downpour. The mobile bars were out in full. People were dressed in the most wonderful costumes I have ever seen. I felt like I was among "my people." I bet each and every one of them would have accepted an invitation to one of my murder mystery dinner parties! Ha! The very first group costume I saw was a Mr. Okra truck! Mr. Okra is our modern day street vendor, known for his catchy street cries about fresh produce. Basically, these people were the very embodiment of my dissertation on New Orleans' food markets and street food culture!
I saw the entire cast of Alice in Wonderland (complete with a mobile tea party). At one point, a large aquatic themed parade went by. I assume the green Poseidon-like figure riding the float was a character from some fantasy novel/comic strip I don't know about. He had an entire fleet of gold men pulling his boat along. They were surrounded by people dressed up as jelly fish, puffer fish, lobsters, and various sea creatures. I was sort of hoping that they would bust into a rousing rendition of "Under the Sea" from the Little Mermaid. Alas, that didn't happen. As they passed by, I caught my first throw of the day - a plastic alligator!
As my friends got caught in Mardi Gras traffic on their way to the Marigny, I decided to head to a cute little coffee shop to warm up. I had the most delicious hot chocolate - it was really frothy. How do they do that?
The environment in the coffee shop was so comical. I loved watching people dressed as Cleopatra and Mark Antony or as characters from the Fantastic Four walk up to the counter and order a "flat white" or "cafe noir." It made me wonder what kind of drinks those characters would actually have chosen in their historical/mythical worlds. After warming up in the coffee shop, I stepped outside to watch various New Orleanians parade by in their costumes on their way to the French Quarter. I liked this man's costume (he was dressed as a King Cake and built in cup holders into his ensemble):
At one point I witnessed two unicorns fighting in a make-shift boxing ring (I don't know what that was about, but I just accepted it as part of Mardi Gras day). It was quite the spectacle. Everyone was cheering them on in this bizarre MTV Spring Break-esq kind of way.
Eventually, I heard from my friends. They were over in Treme (a few neighborhoods over) waiting for the Mardi Gras Indians to parade by. I decided to join them over there because I always wanted to see the Mardi Gras Indians! They have the most fabulous hand beaded, feather costumes imaginable. They look like this:
On my way there, I ran into the St. Anne's parade. It was nice to catch a glimpse of that before heading on. After cycling 15 minutes, I made it to the bridge where Claiborne Ave and Orleans Ave meet. Apparently, "Mardi Gras under the Bridge" at Claiborne and Orleans is a thing. Here is a YouTube video to give you an idea of what it was like - AWESOME. There was live music (and it was dry under the bridge, which made it even better considering the weather).
I didn't realize that this intersection was at the end of the Zulu parade route, which started Uptown at 8:00 am and reached us around 10:45 am. When the floats started rolling by, I was completely surprised! I was only expecting the Second Lines (and the Mardi Gras Indians) to pass by...not the entire parade. SO FUN! Anyway, Zulu is known for throwing out bedazzled coconuts. Similar to the Muses shoes, they are a very prized Mardi Gras throw. Oddly enough, however, when the floats made their way under the bridge, krewe members were handing out coconuts left and right! It was incredible. I think everyone around me got a coconut. I got five coconuts!!! A stranger was kind enough to give me a really cool white spotted coconut, and I gave a little kid a gold one later on (#karma).
Surprisingly, it was fairly calm in the quarter! I think they rain held most of the crowds at bay. Don't get me wrong, it was still bustling, but you could actually walk around and enjoy the sights and people watch without fearing that you would be trampled to death. It was also a very family-friendly experience. I did not see a single person flash anyone for beads etc. I did see a woman whose costume consisted of little swimming shorts and Mardi Gras coins pasted on her chest (and that was it). She was accompanied by a similarly skimpily clad guy. I saw them at the St. Anne parade and then again at Bar Tonique -- it must be a popular neighborhood bar. But that was the extent of skin I saw on Mardi Gras (thank God!)
Anyway, I enjoyed walking along Royal and Bourbon Street. I caught a few beads (now I can say I did Mardi Gras on Bourbon Street!)
I was home and doing laundry by 3:00 pm! Perfect!
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