The drive into town was actually really nice. The sun was
starting to set and cast the green Moroccan countryside in a really heavenly
glow. I got to practice my French with the taxi cab driver. He actually said I had really good French! He
told us about the city sites we were passing – the olive orchards, the New Town
(la ville nouvelle), the shopping mall etc. Eventually, we pulled up to the
main gate to the Medina (the Old City). How would I describe the Medina? Well,
I would liken it to city of Agra bah in Aladdin – no joke!
The Median in Fes is
the largest in all of Africa and consists of over 7,000 tiny winding lanes,
alleys, and roads! The buildings are all a sandy peach color and sort of fit
together like a jig saw puzzle. It is the labyrinth of all labyrinths and is
thus is a delight to adventurous travelers and a terror for the more timid of
heart. There are no cars allowed in the Medina, so our taxi driver dropped us
off at the main gate and he told us that he was calling our hotel to let them
know we were there. Five minutes later, our guide, Said came to collect us and
take us into the Medina. We plunged into the winding alleyways that made up the
outskirts of the Medina. We wove through crowded street; some nearly abandoned,
some bustling with all types of people. It was overwhelming, wonderful,
disconcerting, and exciting all at the same time. I’m a bit paranoid, so I kept
imagining that we were being sucked into some elaborate taxi scheme where we
would end up abandoned in the middle of the biggest Medina in Africa with no
idea where to go and no way to call home. All of this was totally unjustified,
but I couldn’t help but have those thoughts run through my head as we followed
Said into the swirling depths of the Medina.
After about 10 minutes, we arrived
at Dar El Yasmine. Thus far, I’ve been referring to it as a hotel, but it is
actually a riad – a type of bed and
breakfast specific to Morocco. Riads
began in Marrakech and spread to Fes and other Moroccan cities in the past decade
as wealthy Moroccans and European immigrants bought up 19th century residences, converting them into B&Bs in the major tourist cities. Anyway, we
arrived at the riad and Mahmen
greeted us with a big smile and very warm welcome. The sun had already set, so
the inner courtyard and central social space of the riad was saturated with a cool blue light and deep purple shadows.
We were invited to take a seat and relax while Said fixed us some Moroccan mint
tea (a traditional way of greeting guests in Morocco). While he was fixing tea,
I went ahead and connected my iPhone to the wifi so I could email my parents
and let them know I made it safe and sound to our place of residence. I was
able to connect because I figured out that the piece of paper on the wall with
random numbers on it was actually the wifi code (later on, when Said offered to
give us the wifi password, I told him I already connected to the internet. He
was aghast. He said that they first offer tea to guests and then give them the wifi password. I
think he was shocked that I somehow figured out that that random piece of paper
was the password, but also that I was “brazen” enough to just go ahead and
connect to the internet without allowing him to formally greet us with tea. A
small faux pas – but interesting nonetheless. It shows how important
hospitality is to the Moroccans. Anyway, I emailed Mom and Dad and sat back to
relax and enjoy the tea ceremony. Said brought out some beautiful glasses and a
large pot of tea which he lifted up high in the air as he poured the sweetened
tea into our glasses and then added a sprig of fresh mint. While we waited,
Mhamed, informed us that there was a slight over-booking issue, so they were
going to put us up in a neighboring riad
next door. Elah and I were a bit concerned about this, but they assured us that
the riad was of great quality and it
would not be a problem (and they were right!) So, we headed just down the
street to the other riad where we were
greeted by a new innkeeper. As tradition dictates, we were invited to sit down,
enjoy mint tea (and peanut butter shortbread cookies). Elah and I had a good
chuckle about having tea just after we had tea at the other riad, but we were happy to go along with
custom. As an interesting side note, this second riad had a different aesthetic than Dar El Yasmine. It’s inner
courtyard was tiled with warm rather than cool colors: red, yellow, gold, and
orange. The plush sofas were crushed gold velvet with elaborate floral
patterns.
Eventually, we made our way up to our spacious room where we took a
few moments to settle in, drop off our luggage, and collect ourselves before
meeting Said downstairs. Before our arrival, we made dinner plans for a
traditional Moroccan meal at the riad.
We assumed that we would eat at Dar El Yasmine, but Said actually took us to
another riad called Dar Zahor
(meaning flower) for dinner. At this riad,
we met another friendly innkeeper who invited us to have dinner. There are no
menus. He just asked us what we wanted. We were a bit caught off guard, so we
asked for his recommendation. We ended up ordering two tagine dishes: beef with
prunes and chicken with lemon and olives. We also had a nice tomato and
cucumber salad, sweet cinnamon and honey carrots, and cornbread.
As we waited, a bunch of guests wandered into
the riad. There was a girl from
Barcelona, a man from Paris, a woman from Malaysia, two Americans who were
currently teaching English in Spain and were on holiday in Morocco, an American
girl, and two Moroccan women. We were all enjoying the bright central courtyard
of Dar Zahor, which had elaborately carved archways and a beautiful blue tiled fountain.
A few more riad workers came to greet
us and have brief conversations. They are very funny and love to joke around.
Both Elah and I were amazed at how multilingual all of the riad workers were. Many of them were proficient in English, French,
Spanish, and no doubt, other languages. Eventually, our dinner arrived and was
everything that we hoped North African cuisine would be – a wonderful
combination of savory and sweet. The beef tagine with prunes was so rich and
tender from slow cooking all day long. The lemon chicken with purple olives was
also delicious. I think I was most surprised by the sweet carrots, which seemed
to have been boiled and then drizzled with a honey cinnamon glaze. They tasted
like my Great Aunt Dolly’s carrots that she makes for Easter. At some point
during dinner, we fell into conversation with the two American men visiting
from Spain. They told us about their work as English teachers and how they were
going on a 3 day, 2 night trek into the Sahara dessert. I also started a conversation
with the American girl named Katie. She is getting a masters degree in Scotland
and is currently on spring break. She just got back from a trip to Malta with
her boyfriend and is traveling in Fes by herself. She was a very interesting, enthusiastic
person who has a lot of travel experience. We enjoyed exchanging stories and
planned to meet up with each other the next day.
After dinner, Elah and I made
our way back to our riad after
getting directions from the innkeeper. The souq
(e.g. market) was still bustling at 9:00 pm – Moroccans and tourists alike were
enjoying the gorgeous Moroccan night. As a side note: apparently Moroccan meals
fall at 10:00 am, 3:00 pm, and 9:00 pm with lunch being the largest of the
three. Elah and I headed up to the rooftop terrace of our riad for a quick look at the city. This riad has one of the highest terraces in the Medina, which afforded
us a lovely 360 degree view of the old city. The innkeeper pointed out the
famous landmarks in the area including the Medersa Boui Inania; the Kairaouine
Mosque & University; the Merenid tombs up on the hill over looking the
Medina. Then, we settled in our room for the evening.
The next morning, Elah and I woke up around 8:00 am and got
ready for our breakfast. A kind woman greeted us and asked us to take a seat in
the main courtyard. Elah and I wanted to take advantage of the rooftop view, so
I asked her in French if we could take our breakfast upstairs with us. She
nodded and we collected our trays and headed up 4 flights of stairs. The
morning view of the Medina was well worth the semi-precarious trek up to the
roof. The birds were singing, there was not a cloud in the sky, and the café au
lait was wonderful. We enjoyed cornbread and another type of bread that sort of
looks like naan with butter and apricot jam. We took an hour or so to enjoy the
view and try to identify some of the more famous mosques and other landmarks.
Then we made our way back to Dar El Yasmine with our luggage so we could move
into the room that we would occupy for the next three nights.
We asked Said for directions to the Clock Café where Elah
and I signed up for a Moroccan cooking class. He said, “It’s very easy. Go
toward Dar Zohor, but don’t turn right. You’ll run into another main street,
and then you will see signs for the Clock Café.” I asked him to repeat these
directions and I repeated them back to him. Elah and I were about to set off
and just as we were stepping out the door, Said said, “You know what? I am
heading that way, so I will take you part of the way there.” So, we happily
followed him through the Medina. Thank goodness he directed us because his
directions were a bit different that
what he told us verbally. We would have totally gotten turned around without
his help. But, now that we’ve trekked to the Clock Café, we know exactly where
it is and easily found it again later today when we went back to hear a
concert. Anyway, we arrived at the Clock Café 15 minutes early (quelle
surprise?) A nice waiter greeted us and sat us down in the main courtyard where
he asked if he could bring us anything to drink. We asked if we could just
start off with water, which he brought to us straight away. 10 minutes later he
returned with a concerned look on his face and asked us again if he could bring
us anything to drink such as tea or coffee. He explained that it was custom to
do so and he felt it (culturally) necessary that we order something to drink. I
ordered a spiced, sweet almond milk drink (upon his suggestion – apparently, he
created it) and Elah ordered spiced coffee made with black pepper, cinnamon,
and a variety of other spices. Both were
delicious! The almond milk was so
almond-y. You could tell that it was real almond milk and not something made in
a factory somewhere in the United States. Around 10:15, the chef, Souad,
greeted us with a huge smile and kind words. She is a very personable woman –
extroverted, funny, lively, and warm. She advised us to look over the menu and
decide what we would like to make that day. She also told us that there might
be another person joining us for the cooking class. Elah and I decided that we
wanted to make harira (a traditional
hearty Moroccan soup with tomato, onion, garlic, lentils, and vermicelli); B’stella b’djaj (tagine chicken wrapped
in fresh made filo dough and then baked – also the official dish of Fes); and an
off-menu dessert (pureed prunes with orange blossom water and almonds dipped in
chocolate). Souad noted that her son loves making this dessert on his own.
After choosing our menu, we went out into the market with
Souad to purchase our fresh ingredients. I was in charge of carrying the basket
to collect our goods in. The vegetable market was only steps away from Clock
Café. Souad explained the market culture – how many of the foods found in the
market are grown and sourced locally. That the market only sells items that are
in season unless they are locally grown items that are preserved and sold year
round. For example, they have dried dates and an assortment of nuts at various
stalls. One of our first stops was to the bakery where they sold 6 major types
of bread. There is one flat, round bread that is about 20 inches in diameter.
It sort of looks like coral – and is spongy. There are several types of disk
shaped breads that range from savory corn breads, to flat naan-like breads, to
baguettes. We ended up ordering a spicy naan-like bread. Then we moved on to
several more stalls. As we navigated the market, Souad went up to numerous
stalls to greet her friends. From what I could tell, she was joking with her
long time friends in Arabic, building her relationships and solidifying her
place as an important customer within the market. It was so amazing to see. I
say this because these are the types of relationships I am interested in
studying in my dissertation. I want to know how people in the 19th
century built their social networks within the food economy and why those
relationships were important to food culture and local communities. Souad is a
contemporary example – and a dynamic one at that.
At one point during our journey through the market, we
stopped a chicken stall. Two men were working behind this counter and at their
feet, tromping around on saw dust, were about 2 dozen white chickens. They pulled
a chicken from the crowd, clipped its wings back and placed it on a scale in
front of us. Souad turned to us and said, “This is your chicken.” After
weighing the chicken, one of the men, cradled the bird in the crutch of his arm,
slit its throat, and placed t in a tall cylindrical bucket (presumable where
the animals would bleed out). The butchery is done to be halaal. We paid for
our chicken, went off to another stall to do some more shopping, and returned
20 minutes later to pick up our chicken (which by that point had been soaked in
hot water and plucked). One of my favorite stalls that we visited was the filo
dough stall. A woman worked the stall alone. She had what looked like a crepes
maker in front of her (essentially a hot metal disk). She took a fairly soft
dough in her hand and swept her hand counter clockwise along the metal,
skimming a thin layer of dough along the burning hot surface. Within 15-20
seconds the filo sheet had cooked through and she laid it on top of a pile of
several hundred other sheets of dough. She made our sheets of filo to order
(which we would later use to wrap our chicken in). While at the market, we also
picked up fresh parsley, coriander, and celery leaves as well as a few other
ingredients. We also passed by several meat stalls where they sell lamb, beef,
and camel. Souad explained that the butchers keep their meat out in the open
and not in a fridge to show how fresh it is. With fresh meat, you don’t need to
refrigerate it – refrigeration suggests that it is not fresh and that the
butcher is trying to conceal the poor quality. She also noted that the
carcasses are inspected and stamped with a bright green stamp before being
brought into the city – to show that they meat government standards. Another
means of showing freshness is to display the heads of the animals that were
butchered – often you would see lamb and camel heads on display. The camel
heads looked significantly older because they would have been butchered in the
dessert and brought in from farther away.
Eventually, we made our way back to café clock where we took
a little rest and then headed up to the 3rd floor private kitchen to
get to work. Elah and I started off by prepping all of our veggies while Souad
marinated our chicken in lemon and olive oil. We finely chopped the herbs that
we purchased as well as onion and garlic. Souad also prepared the broth for our
harira soup – tomato paste, onion,
garlic etc. Later we added fresh herbs, vermicelli, and lentils to this dish.
Meanwhile, we rubbed our chicken with fresh herbs, turmeric, ginger, salt, and
pepper, let that sit for a while and then put it in a pressure cooker with
onions and garlic. After the pressure cooker was finished, we pulled the meat
off the bone and added wrapped our meat and veggie filling in the filo dough we
purchased. We buttered the surface and put those pockets of deliciousness in
the oven to bake. Meanwhile, we started prepping our dessert by finely chopping
our dates, adding in orange blossom water (made locally), almonds and mixing that
all together. Then, we rolled that date paste into little balls and dipped it
in semi-sweet chocolate. We placed those little desserts into the fridge to
cool.
All the while, we were chatting with Souad who was an
extremely interesting and open person. She was born and raised on the northern
coast of Morocco, and moved to Fes where she met her husband. She said that the
food is different up North – many of the dishes are based on seafood. She
learned how cook Fassian food from her mother in law, who she has a fairly
close relationship with. She said that she really tries to keep her mother in
law happy – it just makes her life easier. Anyway, she went to university to
study philosophy for 2 years, but did not complete her third year. She met her
husband while attending college. She read Descartes and other famous Western
philosopher etc. She noted that her husband is supportive and fairly liberal as
far as husbands go in Morocco. She has one son who she adores, but wishes she
could spend more time with. She noted that she only has one child because she
wants to be able to provide for him to the best of her abilities. With only one
child, she and her husband have more resources to dedicate to his education.
Her husband and son were off in Casablanca visiting family that day. Souad was
grateful for the break. She was hoping for a day off from work, so she could go
to the hamam (public bathhouse) and
relax on her own for a day. She spoke so fondly of her local bathhouse – how it
is such a retreat and a space of quiet and calm where she can collect her
thoughts. She said that she goes there a few times a month. She also noted that
she loves going to watch American movies to improve her English. She takes
great joy in that. Around 2:30, we were finished with the cooking and sat down
to enjoy our meal with Souad and chat more about Moroccan culture. Overall, it
was such a lovely experience and a rare treat to be able to chat with a
Moroccan woman for such an extensive period of time. Right before we left,
Souad showed Elah how to tie her scarf around her head like a Moroccan woman.
While we were walking back to our riad,
a man asked Elah if she was muslim – the head scarf must have been tied very
authentically, then!
After our cooking class, we rested for a bit, and eventually
made our way back to Café Clock to hear traditional Moroccan music. The staff
was really sweet and reserved us a table right next to the band. We met our
friend, Katie, from the riad there as
well. The music was really interesting – there was one guitar like instrument
and two cymbal players. All three men sang at the top of their lungs, in
unison, during many of the songs. The crowd was a mix of locals and tourists –
there were a half dozen young Moroccan women there who enjoyed clapping along
and occasionally got up to dance to the music. We people watched, sipped on
mint lemonade, and perused our guidebooks -
multi-tasking experts!
Another night’s rest, and we were up and Adam around 9:00 to
grab breakfast. Once again we enjoyed café au lait, orange juice, a selection
of Moroccan breads and pastries with honey, strawberry jam, cheese, and curds.
Then, we met our tour guide, Jamal, who was allegedly from the official tourist
office. Elah and I are still unsure whether or not Jamal was an official or
unofficial guide. Unofficial guides are very common in Fes, but they are
illegal. As a responsible tourist, you are supposed to book official guides
through the tourist office – which is what we requested to do. When Jamal
arrived, he had two Spanish tourists with him already. He said, “You can join
us, pay $250 for 3 hours, or you can get another guide.” We tried to clarify
the length of the tour, tell him the sites were wanted to see, and notify him
that we did not want to do any shopping. He replied that he was going to take
us to the sites he wanted to take us to and that we had to go to a few shops
because the Spanish tourists requested to do so. Although a bit skeptical, Elah
and I were trying to just “go with the flow,” and embrace the somewhat
unpredictable/uncontrollable tourism culture of Morocco.
A bit about our tour guide – Jamal grew up in Fes. He told
us that he had been working as an official guide at the tourist office for 26
years. You could tell that he knew the city very well. He navigated the streets
with much ease and confidence, waving hello and greeting many passersby. He
explained that the Medina is divided into little communities and each community
has 1) a public fountain 2) a public bakery 3) a mosque. He took us to one of
these public bakeries to try a bite of a pistachio biscotti-type thing. There
is one baker who mans the wood burning oven. Community members bring their
loafs/cookies etc to the bakery and pay .5 Dh to have their goods baked.
As we walking, Jamal noted that the Medina in Fez was
identified as UNESCO heritage site and the city had received a good amount of
money from foreign philanthropists to renovate and preserve some of the more
famous sites in the city. So, as we were walking through the winding alleys, we
saw a lot of wooden scaffolding around important monuments: various mosques, funduques (19th century
hotels that used to house traveling merchants/caravans). The first part of our
tour focused on architecture, the second on Moroccan customs, and the third on
arts and crafts.
So, we asked Jamal not to take us to any shops at the
beginning of our tour, but he said the Spanish tourists on our tour wanted to
go. So, during the third part of tour we visited three shops: a carpet
collective, a tannery, an embroidery shop, and a spices shop. I would say that
the carpet shop was one of the more “typical” shopping experiences. When we
arrived, a merchant took us upstairs to explain the history of carpet making
and the different types of carpets in Morocco – mainly Berber carpets and
Fassian carpets. Berber carpets have a tighter weave and more geometric
patterns. Fassian carpets have more vibrant patters and motifs (such as the
tree of life) and feel more like the carpets we are used to in the United
States. They come in blues, reds, greens, yellows etc. There is a great
variety. They served us Moroccan mint tea and encouraged us to buy their
carpets. We declined with respect. Jamal was ready to move on anyway, so we
headed out. I think he took us to a local tannery. Among its various artisan
crafts, Fes is known for its leather and its tanneries. We went to a shop with
a view of the tanneries. There were two parts of the tanneries – each composed
of dozens of lime stone pits. Half the pits contain a mixture of pigeon poop,
cow urine, and lime and half contain vegetable-based dyes. The tannery workers
soak the pelts in the first solution for 2 weeks which helps to preserve the
skin and makes the removal of fur much easier. Then they soak the skins in one
of the dye vats for a few days. Most of these dyes are vegetable based (red =
poppy; yellow = saffron; blue = indigo). Then, they take the leather and
fashion it into purses, jackets, slippers etc. The pits actually have a fairly
strong smell and often these shops will hand sprigs of mint to tourists to
lessen the smell. After the tanneries, we headed to an embroidery shop where
the man told us about cactus silk and how they pull strands of silk from the
long leaves of cactus plants and spin them into threads which can then be used
to make shimmery scarves etc. Side note: Fassians spin silk in the streets of
the Medina. They tie one end of the silk to a nail in the wall and walk 200
feet down the road, attach the silk to a repurposed motor from a hair dryer and
spin it that way – very creative. After the embroidery shop – where we saw a
man working a loom as well – we headed to a spices and beauty products shop
where a woman introduced us to argon oil and how it is made. They had a few
Berber women working in the shop (but I feel that this was more to
“authenticate” the experience for tourists than an actual representation of how
the beauty products were made). Eventually, we made our way back to Dar El
Yasmine, paid Jamal, and took a moment to collect ourselves.
We set our for a popular lunch place, the Ruined Garden,
after our tour. This is another restaurant owned and operated by an English
couple. They found the courtyard when renovating a riad and decided to turn it into a restaurant. The food was
delicious and the atmosphere ideal – there were gurgling fountains, shaded
tables surrounded by swaying palm leaves, and blooming flowers. Elah and I took
our time eating and enjoyed reading about Moroccan history and culture in our
guide books. Then, with a new found confidence, we set off into the Medina on
our own. Since we didn’t get to see all of the sights we wanted to see on our
tour, we had to do some exploring on our own. Once you acclimate to the Medina,
you can actually spot the signs that guide you to where the various monuments
are. So, we didn’t have that much trouble hitting all of the sites. We got
pretty adventurous toward the end of the day too – we decided to try to find
the largest tannery (on the opposite end of the Medina) on our own. I’m not
going to lie – it was actually really tricky to find the tannery. I ended up
stopping every 500 ft or so to ask someone in French how to find the tannery.
Street by street, we made our way through the Medina. We knew we were close
when 1) we could smell the pungent odor of treated leather 2) we passed by
wholesale leather dealers. Even so, we still couldn’t find it. Eventually, a
man pointed us toward “a café” with a view of the tanneries. The café ended up
being a leather shop with a terrace roof view of the treatment pits. As custom
dictates, an English speaking guide told us about the history of the place and
then took us into the shop to peruse their items. We looked at the purses and I
tried on a leather jacket, but we were not that happy with the quality, so we
didn’t end up buying anything.
What we didn’t realize is that we had traversed a good part
of the Medina on our epic journey to find the tanneries. As we made our way
back toward our hostel, we basically walked 45 minutes uphill along one of the
major roads of the Medina. While on this road, we faced some of the more
aggressive shop keepers who called out to “the Americans” to go into their
stores. Elah and I clutched our purses tightly (because pick pocketing tends to
concentrate in the most crowded streets) and forged ahead (while still enjoying
the sights and sounds). Eventually, we made it to the other end of the Medina,
where we exited the city walls and caught a taxi up to the Merinid tombs (which
have the best view of the entire Medina at sunset). This was not a lie – the
view was STUNNING! The Medina spread out along the valley like a vast wave
across the countryside. My favorite view, though, was on the opposite side of
the bluff where you could see the rolling hills and olive orchards.
We
eavesdropped on some English tour guides, people watched, and enjoyed the
lovely sunset over the Medina. Then we walked home, went to café clock for a
relaxing dinner and enjoyed the evening. We really loved our long, relaxed
meals at Café clock. We always made our way up to the terrace and really lucked
out this night because we scored the highest table with the best view of the
city at twilight. The full moon was rising behind the Medursa tower, and the
call to prayer sounded out twice during our meal. It was such a beautiful
night. Eventually, we were joined by a couple who was coming straight from the
cooking class we took earlier that night.
Our last full day in Fes was more exploratory than anything
else. We didn’t have any major plans other than to visit the Medursa Bou Inania
(the most famous site in the city – a gorgeously decorated university &
dormitory) and attend the Suffi Music Festival that evening. In the morning, we
headed to the food markets again to take some photographs and people watch. The
produce selection there is amazing! Bananas, nectarines, oranges, potatoes,
eggplant, onions, celery, live snails, chickens, spices, herbs, legumes and dry
goods of all sorts. There are little old men who sit under makeshift tents
selling fresh fruits, and young teens manning fruit carts. The smells are
amazing – freshly ground spices, sizzling meat, ripe melon etc. Eventually, we
found the Bab Bou Jeloud gate and sat down for another lunch on the terrace –
we enjoyed some much needed veggies in a tagine dish. Then, we did a bit of
shopping in the artisan markets and I bartered for a beautiful blue and white
embroidered table runner but walked away without buying. We visited the Medursa
which was truly stunning – the stone work was so elaborate and varied. Arabic scripts was seamlessly incorporated
into engravings of flowers, the tree of life, and other Faasian symbols. We
spent about 45-minutes there admiring the stained glass windows and beautiful
carved stonework before heading back out into the world. Eventually, we made
our way to the post office to send some postcards and headed to the Baatha
museum to purchase our tickets for the Suffi music festival. We looked around
the museum’s beautiful gardens for a while, but did not get to see the
collections because they were closed that day. We stuck around that afternoon
for a round table discussion on the meaning of Suffi music, which was conducted
in French. I translated as best as I could, but we did not stick around for the
entire thing. Back to the riad for a
quick rest, then off to a roof top dinner at café clock (quelle surprise!) We
met a lovely Scottish couple there and enjoyed getting travel tips from there
(Elah is heading to Scotland at the end of our trip).
After dinner, we headed to back to the Baatha museum for the
Suffi music festival. The music was delightful to listen to and much more
varied than I thought it was going to be. About midway through the concert, the
crowd started clapping along enthusiastically, eventually standing up and
swaying along the the rhythmic chanting of the Suffi artists. Some other suffi practitioners (all wearing Fezes) joined the musicians on stage, circling around
each other. A guest singer joined them how has an AMAZINGLY beautiful voice. He
wasn’t dressed like the other performers, which made me think that he was a
guest singer. The atmosphere continued to build through the rest of the concert
– everyone pulled out their smartphones to record the events (technology is the
same everywhere!) After the concert, we headed back to riad to rest and prep for our long train ride to Marrakech.
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