Saturday, 22 February 2014

Krewe du Vieux (warning: political satire/raunchy references)

Every year, the unofficial start of the Mardi Gras season kicks off with the Krewe du Vieux parade. First, I should explain that many New Orleanians join Carnival Krewes. These are social clubs that you pay to be a member of. Throughout the year, your krewe will hold social events, but the biggest celebration of the krewe falls during Carnival season when you and your krewe put on a parade. Some krewes have been around since the 19th century and are very difficult to get into. Some krewes are only a few years old and welcome anyone willing to pay the annual dues. Krewes typically range from 100-500 members. Krewes all have different personalities and the themes and extravagance of their parades also vary from krewe to krewe. Krewe du Vieux makes a point of emphasizing political satire in its parade through sexual innuendos and other "crude" jokes. Reader beware: the material below may (and will likely) offend you!

A week ago today, I was lucky enough to be invited to a balcony party right on the parade route. My friend Caroline's friend knew someone who lived on Royal Street (in the heart of the French Quarter) with a perfect view of the parade route. After waiting for public transportation for over an hour (which never came), I decided to split a taxi with some newly-made friends. We eventually made it to the Marigny and from there I walked to the French Quarter to meet Caroline. I had to dodge tourists jumping out for beads, groups of New Orleanians dressed in bedazzled costumes dancing like wild things, and numerous other characters acting rather strangely to make it to the apartment. What I did not realize then was that by the time the parade came rolling through in an hour's time, you wouldn't even be able to walk on Royal Street because thousands upon thousands of people were converging on the Quarter.

Our host's name was Sam. He had an amazing apartment - eccentrically decorated and full of fascinating people. Caroline and I grabbed a drink and went out to the balcony to wait for the parade to make its way from the Marigny into the Quarter. Off in the distance, past thousands of drunk people, I saw a glimmer of the first float. Slowly, it creeped through the crowds and pushed its way right in front of our balcony. Everyone went insane! The old ladies next to us were screaming for beads, men and women in colorful wigs waved their hands frantically in the air trying to catch the "throws" (e.g. beads and other random things that krewe members toss from floats), and the people on the streets didn't even attempt to move anywhere because it was so crowded. I was lucky enough to observe all of this from Sam's balcony.


It is hard to capture all of the sensory experiences of this night. Sounds, in particular, were pretty crazy. There were people yelling/singing/laughing/gossiping. The noise of marching bands, tap dancers, and tractors mingled together to make a cacophonous, carnival symphony. I don't really remember smelling anything. What about tastes? Sam made a giant pot of butter beans with alligator, crawfish, and the kitchen sink in it! It was delicious and comforting on such a hectic night.


After the parade passed by our apartment (followed by Krewe Delusion's parade), I walked back to the Marigny to meet up with Theresa and Jessica. Once there, we found spots right along Frenchman Street to catch the Krewe Delusion parade once again as it made its way to the end of its parade route. It was really fun to be right on the street (a very different feel from the balcony at Sam's). Krewe members would walk by, dance with you, flirt with you, give you beads and other random throws. Once lady gave me bedazzled underwear! Another guy gave me a glittery, blue crawfish ring. Hahahahaa. How strange! At one point, I saw a very pregnant krewe member dressed as a mermaid, riding on a bicycle!


Oh! And did I mention that everyone dresses up for the parades? Wigs, feather boas, you name it, someone is wearing it!

Overall, an amazing night (other than the fact that is took me 2.5 hours to find a taxi to take me home after the parades passed through!!)

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