Paris - la troisième fois!

I can't believe I am writing this right now because it sounds so absurd...but here I go...

The third time I went to Paris this summer, I stayed with my good friend Jessica. I met Jessica in New Orleans while I was conducting research there. She was a post doc at Tulane and has since acquired a tenure track position in Oklahoma (Go Jess!)

Jessica lives in the 2nd arrondissement - an extremely charming part of Paris that I wrote a post about earlier this year. So, naturally, I was excited to visit her!

Most of my trip, though, was spent in the archive. I made my way back to the National Library, except this time I felt like a veteran rather than a neophyte. And to add a cherry on top of my already exciting experience, I had a really fruitful (ha!) trip to the archive. I knew exactly what materials I wanted to see and I found some really interesting parallels between depictions of street vendors in Paris and New Orleans.

When I wasn't in the archive, I was out exploring with some of my friends. Why not go to the Louvre again? It's the Louvre, after all!

At one point, Jess and I did a bit of food exploring. We headed to the Île Saint-Louis to try out Berthillon - a special ice cream "indigenous" to this one island in Paris. I tried rose flavored. Delicious! The French are so good at floral flavored desserts. Bravo!

I was also able to meet up with two of my roommates from Rome, Anna and Jie. We decided to convene at Notre Dame (how cool!) and then hold a picnic at the pont neuf.

After watching the sunset over the Seine, we headed toward the carnival at the Tuileries. I had the most magical swings ride of my life -- flying over top of Paris at sunset. You could see all of the monuments in that gorgeous, warm light. I loved it!

The next morning, Jie, Jess, and I met up at the Petit Palais to see the Paris 1900 Exhibit (the one that I was dying to see the last two times I was in Paris!). An exhibit hasn't captured my attention like this in since the Alexander McQueen Exhibit at the MET. I spent 3 hours totally immersed in its amazing collections -- ones that ranged from architectural plans from the 1888 World's Fair to home furnishing of the Belle Epoque era to paintings of the Moulin Rouge. I was so entranced by turn-of-the-century France. I could have spent even longer in the exhibit, but Jie and Jess were ready to head out and grab some lunch.

Before I knew it, I was off to London -- MY LAST STOP (well, sort of! I had to go to Oxford too!)

Les Marchés d’Aix

-->On my last day, I woke up early to head to some of the Tuesday morning markets in Aix. I headed straight for le cours Mirabeau to see the traditional arts and crafts market. At 8:00 am, the vendors were still setting up their tents and placing their wares on display. I was surprised by how many of the shops were selling clothing, shoes, and hats. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t have anything against the sale of clothing at a market. I just thought that this market would have more local artisans selling soaps, tapestries, wood carving etc. The environment felt more like a flea market than an artisan market. So, I decided to head off to the Place Richelme to visit their daily produce market. 

The market was much larger than the one I visited in the same place the day before. Some of the vendors were different as well. What surprised me most about the market was how fragrant it was. As I walk through, I smelled the astringent smell of freshly chopped onions, the earthy smell of fresh lettuce, and the familiar smell of herbs de Provence (one of my mother’s favorite spice combinations). I enjoyed watching the vendors set up their beautiful displays of colorful bell peppers, ripe peaches, apricots, and nectarines, bouquets of sunflowers, and various fresh cheeses, eggs, and meat products. The variety of products was overwhelming. Soon, I headed off to the Place des Precheurs and the Place de Verdun to see the markets there as well. 

  

That square is a bit larger with a produce market near the Eglise de la Madeleine and an artisan market near the Palais de Justice. This market was only about half set up by the time I arrived at 8:15 am or so. The artisan goods vendors were running behind the fruit and vegetable vendors. The view of those colorful awnings (red and yellow striped, blue, white) against the golden yellow of the buildings in that square was so picturesque. I also thought that the one square was called the Place de Pecheurs (as in fishermen), so I was really surprised to see only one fish vendor. I've since realized that the square is named Place de Precheurs (as in preachers). 

Eventually, I made my way back toward the Place Richelme and le Cours Mirabeau for another look around (you know, to check in on the progress of the vendors).

When I originally wrote this post, I was zooming through Provence on the TGV high speed train to Paris. As I looked through the windows of the train, I was amazed by the beauty of the region. I loved looking at those thin, willowy trees (a landscape that has been immortalized by so many impressionist painters). What I didn’t realize as a Yale student was that Provence’s trademark is a range of rocky mountains – the kind where sunlight pools on their crevices at twilight, turning them a peachy pink color. The view from my 3rd floor window in Aix really captured that moment. 

During the remainder of the train ride, I passed by more beautiful countryside including a lavender field (I had always wanted to see a lavender field in France) and fields of tightly clustered sunflowers. They were so close together they look like a floral blanket.

Aix-en-Provence

I learned about Aix during my first year at Duke University. While exploring the possibility of doing a French Empire project (e.g. studying New Orleans’ connections to Haiti and Paris), I asked my fellow French historians about archives. My one colleague, Christy told me about the Archives National D’Outre Mare (e.g. the French National Colonial Archives) in Aix-en-Provence. She told me about how she went there to study the French colonial presence in the Congo. Later that year, I took a course on the history of Haiti, where I learned about the writings of a French-born colonial in Haiti named Médéric Louis Élie Moreau de Saint-Méry. Moreau wrote about the history of French rule on that island and his personal papers are housed at the Aix-en-Provence archives. Moreau has several beautiful passages about the historic markets in Le Cap Francais in what was then known as Saint Domingue. My professor, Laurent Dubois, noted how beautiful the city was and how their market culture there was very rich. And thus the seed was planted. I wanted to go to Aix not only to explore this Provencal city, but also to visit the papers of Moreau de Saint Marie.

So, when I had a few days to spare in between finishing my language program in Rome and heading to Paris for follow up research, I decided to include Aix on my itinerary.

Lucky for me, when I arrived in Aix, the summer shopping sales had just started! This was surprising to me considering I thought Aix was a perfectly preserved medieval city. I knew I was wrong about Aix when I passed by an Apple Store in its central square! Soon enough, I was passing by H&M, Zara, Monoprix, Longchamps, and other international chains. I couldn’t help myself. I was desperate for some professional clothes to wear to my upcoming conference in Oxford. I got sucked into shopping straight away. I also stopped by la Cure Gourmande – a specialty food store that sells Provencal specialties. There, I was able to try both sweet and savory navettes – a typical Provencal biscuit. Some with Herbs de Provencal, cumin, and lavender. I also tried “chocolate olives." 

After a bit of much needed retail therapy, I headed back to le Cours Mirabeau -- the main shopping street. Upon the suggestion of my Airbnb host, Sandrine, I headed towards the winding streets of the Old City. Aix, apparently, is known for its fountains (they are even marked out on the city maps people hand out to tourists). 

 
As I meandered through the streets, I saw many of these fountains – a number of which were surrounded by beautiful planters. After exploring a bit, I headed to Les Deux Garcon, an old fashioned brasserie. Sandrine told me that I had to see the interior because it was so classically French. So, I headed there to peak inside and then grab a seat to people watch before dinner. As I approached Les Deux G, I noticed that there was a giant stage set up at the end of le Cours Mirabeau. Apparently, there was going to be a big concert that evening as part of the Aix-en-Provence music festival. Lucky me! Unlucky for me, all of the places at les Deux G were already reserved because of its close proximity to the stage. But, I still had the chance to inside and look at the interior of the restaurant. It reminded me so much of the older restaurants in New Orleans – an in particular, Galatoirs. There was something so familiar in the mirrored walls, brass lighting fixtures, white table cloths, and green walls. It felt like home. Well, my second home: The Big Easy!

I found a place to sit down and have a beer a few doors down. Boy did I miss French café culture! I just love the idea of hundred of people facing their chairs out to the street and people watching for hours at a time while they drink, smoke, and snack. That is exactly what happens in the lively center of Aix. So, I ordered a beer, munched on some tapas (mussels, chickpeas etc.) and sat down to watch the passersby. 20 minutes into my drink, I heard classic music playing. It was happening in short bursts – snippets only 20 or 30 seconds long. A rehearsal perhaps? It was pleasant.

I still can’t get over how many people were in Aix – youthful people, tourists, older people – such a wide variety and so many! I felt like I was in the hippest and cutest parts of Paris! After enjoying my drink, I headed off to dinner. Originally, I planned to go to a place my host recommended, but it was too crowded. So, I ended up at an American Burger Joint of all places! Do I regret this? Not at all!

After dinner, I walked back to le Cours Mirabeau and the concert venue. I was just in the nick of time. The concert started right at 9:45. 

 
I didn’t know what to expect, but I was so happy to find out that the concert was a classic music concert featuring some extremely prominent Opera singers. There was a full orchestra too. The concert was magnificent. They performed some fairly famous numbers, such as the one that goes, “Figero, Figero, Figerooooooo!” You know what I am talking about! The quality of performance was so stellar that I couldn’t help but smile and sway along to the moving music. The best kind of feeling!

The next day, I headed into the Old City to see the fresh produce market in the Place Richelme. Of course, it was very charming with a nice variety of produce and artisan goods such as soaps from Marseille and satchels of lavender. 

I also grabbed breakfast at Le Pain Quotidien (which is an international chain with locations in many major American cities such as Washington D.C. and New York City). The croissant! OH the croissant! So buttery and delicious!!! I forgot how good they are when made with butter (rather than olive oil like the cornettos in Italy!) 

 
After a bit of looking around, I made my way to a fabric store where I picked out a beautiful blue and yellow tablecloth with the typical provencal designs of wheat. Then, I made my through the winding streets of the Old City. I bought a cute dress and some shoes to complete my new wardrobe for the conference. I also stopped by a highly recommended chocolate shop: Puyricard. I purchased a few treats – dark chocolate salted caramel, pistachio cream, and almond candies. I also stopped in many artisan bakeries and patisseries and was able to try the famous Aix specialty – calissons. I don’t really know how to describe these other than they are leaf shaped candies with white icing on top. They are a bit chewy too – like they are made of marzipan. 

 
After a bit more window shopping, I headed to the Pavillon de Vendome – a beautiful French home and garden on the edge of the old city. There was a fascinating art exhibit displayed there – one of modern photography of people dressed in costumed inspired by the Middle Ages and Renaissance. The gardens were beautiful and so French. Just SUPER organized and symmetrical. I walked into a very old church with layers of history and meandered through Aix’s various city squares where it seemed like the entire city was gathered to watch France play in the world cup. There were droves of people with their eyes glued to the televisions set up outside of cafes. People were tooting fog horns, yelling, and gasping with jubilation or angst. It was a really cool thing to observe such collective spirit. 

 
Eventually, I made my way to Chez Jo- the little Italian restaurant I tried to go to the night before.  I set myself up so I could look out into the square and people watch people watching the soccer match. I had a nice dinner of spaghetti Bolognese, tried out some of the local gelato, and headed home.